Finally I got the opportunity to describe another Fine Dining dinner at the @michelinguide starred restaurant that we visited over the last summer. We chose Chef Juan Amador’s (@juanamadorofficial) three-star restaurant in Vienna. The restaurant is also a member of the luxurious Les Grandes Tables du Monde.
The Amador is an avant-garde restaurant located outside of Vienna’s historic center. You have to make an effort to get here, as the entrance is a bit hidden and quite modest. The Amador Restaurant is basically in a cellar lined with rows of red bricks.
We received our menu in the form of a sealed letter with the Chef’s handwritten signature. The menu was divided into three sections. The first: “Tapas and snacks”, the second: “Mar Y Muntanya” and the third: “Childhood Memories”.
Degustation:
Tapas and snacks
Free Range Beef Tatar/mustard/chives
Tartare ball on a tapioca chip. 3 eggplants.
Beetroot/horseradish/pumpkin seed oil
Sphere with beet essence seasoned with horseradish. 4 eggplants.
Black-Federed Chicken/lettuce/Cecina de Leon
Beautiful mini sandwiches with the Amador restaurant logo. They were a deluxe version of a Caesar salad, topped with Spanish “Cecina de Leon” beef ham. The Happy Eggplant Badge for a delightful appetizer. 5 eggplants.
Eggplant/tomato/egg yolk
Small tartelettes with tomato macaroni and eggplant mousse. Served on extraordinary ceramics. 4 eggplants.
Gazpacho/Red Royal Prawn/Basil
The gazpacho in chip form was surprising. There was tomato espuma with shrimp waiting for us underneath. A basil granita added contrast. 3 eggplants.
Dungeness crab/Bell pepper/Pimenton
We had a lot of fun with this dish. Clouds of liquid nitrogen always impress me. Aside from the visual appeal, these crab cakes were also incredibly tasty and intriguing. Crispy on the outside with a porous texture and tender on the inside. They were pleasantly spicy and papery. Sensational! In the vegetarian version mushrooms were used instead of crab. These delicacies get the Happy Eggplant Badge, of course. 5 eggplants.
Mar Y Muntanya
Bread
After the appetizers, baked goods were served while waiting for the main courses. There were two types of sourdough bread and wheat fingers. As accompaniments we had Maldon flake salt from England, two kinds of Spanish olive oil and a French butter. 3 eggplants.
Iced Beurre Blanc/Royal Oyster/Hazelnut milk/Imperial Caviar
Hazelnut milk foam, butter ice cream, excellent sturgeon caviar, and boiled oysters. This is the Chef’s signature dish. Harmonious and delicate. The flavors were composed perfectly. The well-deserved Happy Eggplant Badge! 5 eggplants.
Saint-Pierre/foie gras/turnip cabbage/poppyseed
The fish was coated in poppy seeds, which brought a bitter taste. There were also chanterelles and cream of fermented garlic. 3 eggplants.
Sole “Bolognese”/Carabinero/tomato/Manni olive oil
It was one of the main courses to choose from. So we ordered two different ones to try both. The fish was garnished with fried pasta, as a reference to the original Bolognese. There was also bacon, which dominated the flavor. The whole thing was drizzled with olive oil from Tuscany. 4 eggplants.
Norway lobster “Nice”/beans/tuna/anchovy
The second main course of our choice. A lobster with tomato espuma surrounded by green bean sauce. There was also tuna tartare in the form of a ball surrounded by tomato gel. The whole dish was dressed with Italian olive oil. 3 eggplants.
Beef/blueberry/mango
Since one of the Tasting Beings does not eat fish and seafood, another main course was suggested off the menu. Which was very much to the liking of this Being. It was beef with mango gelatin and a blueberry crumble. 5 eggplants.
Mieral pigeon/coffee/leek/boletus
A preview of the main course. The leek foam hid porcini cream and sliced pigeon meat. It was dusted with coffee powder and sprinkled with coffee oil. I liked this combination incredibly much, even though I don’t actually like pigeons. Surprising myself, I awarded it with the Happy Eggplant Badge. 5 eggplants.
Mieral pigeon/Vineyard peach/mushroom/coffee curry
This time already larger pieces of pigeon breast with the addition of savoy cabbage, boletus, Jerusalem artichoke and coffee curry. 3 eggplants.
Heart cherry/cherry blossom/sake/cocoa
Pre dessert. Cherry blossom mousse with cherry sorbet and chocolate granita. Decorated with a chocolate snake. Opinions were divided at our table, because some prefer sweeter desserts. I prefer the opposite, and I enjoyed the pre-dessert more than the dessert. Although both were great. Another big plus was the fact that this dish was dairy free. For me, the dessert was perfect and for that I awarded it the Happy Eggplant Badge! 5 eggplants.
”Walk through the Wachau”
It was time for dessert and an apricot assiette, or apricot in several forms. The apricot ice cream, apricot sauce, apricot slices, apricot chips and apricot filling in a block of cheese. Complete with the addition of yuzu and a crunchy variation on the strudel. 5 eggplants.
Childhood Memories
”Purple rain”
Chocolates with Cassis liqueur and elderberry. 3 eggplants.
”Nimm 2”
Orange and lemon sphere. Sweet and refreshing. 4 eggplants.
”Bounty”
Beautiful coconut and chocolate ice lollipops with Amador restaurant logo. 5 eggplants.
“Ice sandwich”
An ice cream sandwich consisting of a waffle with tonka bean and raspberry ice cream. 3 eggplants.
“Golden kiss”
The so-called warm ice cream. Sweet passion fruit foam, covered in chocolate and decorated with a gold flake. 4 eggplants.
“Nightcap”
At the end, we got a little shot for goodnight. Blue gin, tonic, and sloe. The intense and perfect ending to the dinner. 5 eggplants.
Summary:
The time spent at the Amador restaurant was extraordinary. Everything was perfect, no imperfections. The service was excellent, probably the best we have experienced so far. Ideally balanced in terms of courtesy and humor. It was elegant and professional, but not stiff.
The multitude of techniques to prepare elements of each dish and how complex they were was impressive. It was impossible to forget that we were in a three-star restaurant.
Someone who thinks that it is impossible to eat one’s fill in such Fine Dining class restaurants, certainly has not been to Amador. Portions, as you can see, were solid and the number of dishes was also large.
Although I’m still getting used to Spanish cuisine, this dinner was very tasty and beautiful. The composition of the ingredients in the dishes was often surprising and innovative.
We regret not being able to see the Chef, but on our way out we were able to admire the awards he received.
Link to the restaurant Amador
The tasting date: 29.08.2020
Address: Grinzinger Str. 86, 1190 Vienna, Austria
Title picture: Sole Bolognese